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    Structural upgrade specialist
    Ad Id: 1187277
    Posted By: Douglas David Irby of Mayfield, KY (item located in Mayfield, KY)
    Category:Farm/Implements
    Member Since:October 2, 2013 Date Posted:January 3
    Account Type:Pro Date Modified: 0
    Phone:Please login to see phone number. Ad Expiration:February 02
    Web Site:http://www.crawlspacekings.com








      270-804-5339. Why do people waste money on band-aid repair jobs?  Let us upgrade your foundation.  I specialize in structural support upgrades using classical architecture based off weight distribution. 
        Many homes in the area are built without support beams underneath joist.  This causes serious deflection issues with the joist and the  center support.  Joist and beams should always be under constant stress, or they will bend and twist.  A joist hanger is a "hanger", nothing more I can say about that.




      The end of the joist located on the outside wall sits on a 2x6 sil plate supported by a concrete block wall.  The other end of the joist is only supported by an inch and half where it typically is notched or sitting on top of a wall plate nailed to the bottom of a bunch of joist that are nailed together (people call it a beam, but it's not as effective as a solid wood beam).  Typically banded joist is the first areas of a home I expect to find deterioration.  All the added nails and screws and moisture that is trapped between the joist are never good combinations.  With this type of build, piers are usually every 8 to 10 feet.  The high spots in the center of the house are where the joist are supported by concrete block piers.  The low spots is where the joist are only supported by less than inch and a half ledges.  Having 6 inches of solid support on the opposite is actually creating a fulcrum lever.




        Many companies try to fix this problem by adding support between the center beam and outside wall.  This does not even address the problem.  To address this problem you have to knock the top block out of the center piers (so the high spots can come down.  Then place a solid wood beam on either side of the banded joist, making sure to catch 3 and half inches of the joist from underneath putting pressure on the floor and load bearing wall.  
    The home should of been built with the joist crossing at least 6 inches and no more than 9 inches (scissoring can happen if there is too much overhang).  A solid wood beam should be applying pressure to the joist from underneath.  I do have ways to fix this.  

        People get screwed with screw jacks.  Screw jacks placed directly on a joist causes humps.  You are unable to lift a home effectively enough.  To lift a section of a home depending on weight you will need between 6 to 12 bottle jacks.  A couple wrenches and screw jacks on a 4x4 fence post is a joke.

      Not all homes fit these scenarios,  but I have worked on homes from every decade going all the way back to 1790.  I have worked strictly on National Historical recognized homes where the rebuild had too be precise and exact.  Back then homes interlocked like a puzzle.  




       My goal is to add support where needed, put pressure underneath the joist.  Equally distribute weight with secondary support beams that will allow for partial joist replacement and for an easier future repair if needed.  Vapor barrier and mold killer to gain total control of the biome under your home.












    1515 Broadway   Paducah, KY   42001
    270-442-0060
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